Joining in Torshavn
We start in Torshavn, the capital of the Faroes and a thrilling place from which to begin this adventure. The Faroes are a world of huge volcanic cliffs, dramatic coastline and extraordinary wildlife. Surrounded by mountains, this small outpost has a unique culture befitting its remote nature. Modern cafes sit next to grass-roofed houses and around every corner, there is something fascinating to discover. Having got all your belongings packed away, we will issue lifejackets, foul weather equipment and everything else you will need for your time onboard.
Then after lunch and hot drinks, we will slip lines and head out onto the water for some initial training. This is a chance for everyone to learn or revise the key skills such as tacking and gybing and we will also do some serious training on recovering a casualty from the sea. It’s a fun initial session where you will start to feel much more relaxed on board and ready for the big adventure.
Exploring Nordoyar – the northern isles
Exactly how long we get in the Faroes depends on the weather, and having fair winds for the serious voyage 600nm north will always be the priority. However, we usually get 4-5 days to sail and explore the archipelago and we will usually head to the Northern Isles of Kalsoy, Kunoy, Bordoy, Vidoy and Svinoy.
Kalsoy
The islands are an amazing collection of long thin islands, mountains, waterfalls, lighthouses, puffins everywere and amazing views. Dubbed “the flute” because of its thin shape Kalsoy has 13 peaks, 11 valleys, and four villages with a combined population of less than 150. The hike to the lighthouse at Kallur, the northern tip of Kalsoy, is particularly impressive. Kalsoy also has a rich birdlife, including puffins, storm petrels and black guillemots.
Kunoy
With six mountains higher than 800 meters, Kunoy is the highest island in the Faroes. The landscape is rough but fascinating. The cliff Nakkur rises 819 meters straight up from the rough North Atlantic Ocean and is famous for its birdlife, which includes (more!) puffins, guillemots and kittiwakes. The village Skarð, located at the northern end of Haraldssund, was abandoned in the winter of 1919 following the 1913 tragedy. All the grown men in the village were lost at sea, and the only survivors were the women and children.
Drangarnir
Drangarnir, translating directly to ‘the sea stacks’, is a spectacular rock formation with an iconic hole through the middle of it that we may also get to sail past. It is located off the north side of the island of Vágar, near the beautiful islet of Tindholmur. Have your camera at the ready, as these dramatic rocks make for a classic Faroese picture
Offshore passage to Arctic Norway
All the time, we’ll be keeping a close eye on the weather, as the highest priority is a safe passage north across the Norwegian Sea. It is a full 600nm, so we can expect to be offshore for four to five days and nights. As the Faroe Islands disappear from view behind us, we find ourselves out on the open ocean and we will move into our offshore sailing watch system, which is usually 3 hours on and 6 hours off, giving everyone plenty of sailing and plenty of rest.
Offshore sailing is wonderful for its isolation and the need to work closely with nature and whatever she may bring to us. That can be fast downwind sailing, headwinds and lumpy seas, or periods of dead calm where we drift slowly, looking for every zephyr of wind. Everyone takes turns to helm, trim sails, navigate and cook meals. The temperature will drop as we head north and the heating will kick in and keep us toastie warm.
Crossing the Arctic Circle: Order of the Blue Nose
Around halfway, we cross the Arctic Circle at 66.5° North, a momentous moment for any sailor. The Order of the Blue Nose is a long-held maritime tradition steeped in naval folklore.
Upon crossing the famous latitude, a ceremony is held where “Pollywogs” (sailors who have never crossed the Arctic Circle before) are transformed into “Blue Noses,” an honorary title that signifies their new status. The ceremony involves various playful and humorous trials, all conducted under the watchful eye of “King Neptune”.
Arriving into Norway
Finally, the coast of Northern Norway will appear over the horizon. If we are ahead of time, we will make landfall a little to the south of our destination, allowing us some time to explore. Quite different from southern Norway, the coast around Bodø and the Lofoten Islands in Norway is breathtaking and world-renowned for its beauty. Norway’s west coast marks the end of the road for the Gulf Stream, which has brought warm waters from across the Atlantic and makes for a temperate climate. It is a rugged coastline dotted with towering mountains that plunge directly into the Norwegian Sea. The area is also famous for its picturesque fishing villages, nestled among steep cliffs and fjords. The unique Arctic light, which never fully sets during the Midnight Sun, adds a magical quality to the scenery. There are no northern lights until later in the season, but the area is an awe-inspiring blend of natural beauty and tranquil Nordic charm.
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